Karaoke--I Mean, Japanese Language Reading Practice

So just a little short post today.

Karaoke is HUGE in Japan. There are places everywhere and the experience is quite a bit different than what we're used to in America.

You get your own private, soundproofed room. It's really nice. There's a coat rack and a table and your own heating/AC unit so you can get comfortable in there. The rooms are pretty small but can seat 6-8 people. For just my husband and me, it was plenty of room.

You can order drinks (alcoholic or otherwise) as well as full-on meals, such as pizza. It's expensive, but it can be done. I got a melon soda, which you can kind of tell by the greenish tint to the glass in the picture below.

And of course the biggest deal is the machinery:

And the sound systems blow you away. Really.

This is really high quality stuff. Behind the lyrics there is always a video - sometimes the official music video.

So I said Japanese language reading practice because that's what karaoke is for me (besides fun and leisure, of course). If you know the alphabet(s), karaoke is a GREAT way to practice your reading. The kanji (Chinese characters) usually has the phonetic pronunciation above it in smaller letters, so no kanji-reading ability needed!

But the selection isn't limited to Japanese music! The place we went had an extensive selection of Chinese and English songs as well!

I sang this one for you, Tehn. :D 

And this one was for my Daddy!!

So you can sing normal karaoke or you can turn all kinds of analysis/competitive modes. They have modes that will kick you out of the song and boo you if you suck (...that may have happened to me before we turned that off...) or, my personal favorite, modes that will give you an EXTENSIVE analysis of your performance.

I have no idea what any of this means but my inner statistics nerd is singing with joy.

So in short, karaoke is a must-try for anyone visiting Japan. It's integral to Japanese culture as well as just boatloads of fun!

Japanese Geography for Americans 101

So there was an earthquake this morning. That was wild. I may or not have bawled in fear even though it was very mild down where I was. Japan is used to it. My husband and sister-in-law almost literally rolled over and went back to sleep. Apparently there was another quake the day before yesterday and I never even knew it.

I went through the whole day and everything was 100% absolutely normal. People will be happy to hear that even the area hit hardest (Fukushima) suffered extremely little damage and only a few minor injuries from falling furniture and things. The tsunami warning in Fukushima has been lifted and it seems that damage has been minimal. But we sure appreciate those prayers from people all over the world! It warmed my heart to see that on social media today.

As for Tokyo life, nothing changed. And I mean NOTHING. It was so weird. I was like "THE BUILDING SHOOK LAST NIGHT and you're still swarming by the thousands to work looking as bored as usual?"

Another day in the life in Japan, I guess.

Funny note: my husband said that technically we would get a bit of the tsunami action. I, in fear, asked how bad it would be. He held his hand up to his knee and said, "like this high". So whatever the technical definition of "tsunami" is, it needs to be revised to NOT include "weak-sauce waves" and then we can all be less needlessly scared when we hear a tsunami is coming.

But the incident awakened me to a problem: American news has no idea what it's talking about.

I saw the following news clips when I searched the 'nets for what America was hearing about the quake.

And I scratched my head because the slight-door-rattler that I felt this morning sure didn't feel like a 7.3. Also, how "near" is Fukushima to Tokyo? 149 miles, as it turns out (239 km as everyone except America says). 3 hours' travel by Japanese means. That is...close? And WHY on EARTH is Okinawa even being mentioned in this search? (continue to read to see how hilariously inaccurate THOSE reporters were.)

And it was then that I realized that Americans (me, included, before I met my husband) think that Japan looks something like this:

Hint: Nope.

Tokyo is pretty much the only thing we know about Japan geographically except for maybe Mt. Fuji (which is NOT in Tokyo, by the way). So we use it as a reference, naturally. However, the overuse of Tokyo alone and the lack of other landmarks and a grasp of the size and scale of Japan leads to a gross oversimplification. Just because something hit Japan doesn't mean it hit Tokyo.

Think of it like this:
All Tokyo is Japan.
Not all Japan is Tokyo.

So today I am going to enlighten you, as I have been enlightened.

To imagine the size and scale of Japan, just think California (excepting Okinawa). It's small compared to the rest of the U.S. but pretty sizable on its own and it takes a long time to drive from end to end.

Below, Tokyo is "X marks the spot", on the east coast of the main island called Honshu, approximately in the middle of the country. Tokyo and surrounding cities are a part of the Kanto region, an extremely population-dense conglomerate of mega-cities.

(Map is drawn by me and so is approximate. But you get the idea.)

To give you a laugh, THIS is Okinawa. Scale wise, it doesn't fit on most Japanese maps, they have to give it a special insert. Kind of like Hawaii and the mainland USA.

762 km is about 474 miles. Start driving.

So why those news reporters were saying ANYTHING about Okinawa baffles me. They were completely unaffected by the quake in any way, shape, or form. Especially because the distance between Fukushima (where the quake ACTUALLY hit) and Okinawa is 1,479 miles (2,381 km). That is literally like saying there was an earthquake in Chicago when it was in Los Angeles.

Ok I'll stop harassing the press and get back to geography.

Ok I lied. One more thought about the press. I wonder if the headlines that the earthquake hit "near Tokyo" was reported that way just for shock value. No one cares about Fukushima (actually, as it turns out they are a bit infamous if you know what happened there - why isn't THAT being talked about????) but everyone knows that Tokyo is the biggest city in the world. You get more readers with a headline that Tokyo was hit.

You don't hear much about the rest of Japan. But here are the basics:

The north island is called Hokkaido. It's very large in land and very small in population. This is Japan's farmland and also the winter wonderland of the country. The southern island is called Kyuushu. It is awesome. It is also where the Kumamoto quake hit a while back. The "eastern" isle is called Shikoku and I don't know a thing about it.

And now you know 4 of the 6,852 Japanese islands. But don't feel too far behind. Only 430 of them are inhabited in the first place.

As for major cities you (sometimes) hear about in American media, I've taken the liberty of giving their approximate locations on the handy map below. If you know these cities, you have a point of reference for just about anything in Japan:

So you actually never hear about Chiba. The reason it's on there is because it is the REAL location of the Tokyo Narita Airport and Tokyo Disneyland. So it's a big deal. But it gets lumped with Kanto (rightly so) and Tokyo (wrongly so) a lot. Want to fly into Tokyo proper? Fly to Haneda Airport. 

Actually don't, Narita is so much better.

So now hopefully you know a little bit more about Japan and can be more educated than some of the news venues and tell them when they are off by 1,500 miles.

I have No Idea Where I am on Planet Earth

So one of the first things I ask my English speaking Tokyo friends is "How do you navigate in Tokyo?" Their answer was not encouraging:

"Oh, it's really hard. Even for natives."

Emphasis on each word. Individually.

If it's hard for someone who speaks the language, has lived in Japan their whole life, and has even a normal sense of direction, then I don't have a prayer in the world, because I lack all three of these things.

So as if this means ANYTHING to me, this is a map we were given of our ward (one of 26 segments of Tokyo) when we registered our residence at the local government office. 

Hmmm...yes. I see. Water. I see water on the map. That will be useful in case I run into the ocean. Is there anything else useful this map can tell me?

So in case that doesn't look scary enough, here's a close up of a random neighborhood:

*mmmphmmhelpmmphm*

So back where I came from, the streets are nicely aligned to a grid. Not so here. And each of those numbers is a BLOCK, not a building.

So long story short, TONS of tiny, narrow streets of irregular lengths and directions, none of which have names.

Okay so that's only 90% fair. About 90% of the roads don't have a name. If it has a name, it's BIG and/or a highway. In America, even the dinkiest little back road has a name. Not so here. 

So the first thing that came to my mind was "how can I get directions if there are no street names?!?!?"

1) Google maps is your friend.

2) Google maps will save you so use it.

3) Don't do it alone, use Google maps.

4) If you for any period of time do not have access to Google maps, then your best bet is to move with extreme slowness and caution, check every turn five or six times, and cleave to landmarks.

5) Train lines and stations are your best landmarks.

So when people say "Where do you live?" you give the name of your nearest train station and/or the line the station is on. You can also use the name of your neighborhood if it's a well-known one such as Shibuya or Odaiba. Getting into the specifics beyond that gets messy really fast. Finding neighborhoods is easy, finding the building in that neighborhood is a nightmare. And even the locals know it! One of the first sayings I learned about Tokyo is "The shortest route is the route you KNOW."

Don't try shortcuts. Just don't. It's faster to travel the road most traveled.

So while I am not alone quite yet, I'm trying to make a mental map of where I am and several landmarks to go by. So far, the image in my brain is something like this:

So as you can see, it's less a map and more of a cluster of cloudy nebulous "maybe this is here...?"'s.

In case you haven't figured it out, I have no idea where I am in Tokyo.

And the sad thing is, I don't know any REAL landmarks. The two stores I know, Lawson and Aeon, are everywhere in Japan, and ramen shops are on every other corner (and look at the professional map to see just how many corners there are). So basically, I know no information that would be of any use to anyone if they had to find me.

So I have a lot to learn. People DO live here so I know it CAN be done.

In the mean time, Google maps, I love you. I really, really, REALLY do.

Kushikatsu – Literally “Stick Fry” – AKA Out-Americaning America SO Hard

I’m told this originates from Osaka, which makes me scratch my head because we in America seriously should have thought of this a long time ago.

This place was called Kushiya Monogatari (Translation: “The Tale of Stick Frying”) and it was classy and amazing. Not cheap, but worth it for the experience.

How to eat Kushikatsu in five simple steps:

1) It’s all-you-can-eat for 90 minutes. So load up! The buffet is loaded with meats, vegetables, breads, and desserts, each served on an individual skewer. Serve up and return to your table.

2) Dip whatever goodness is on your stick in batter, then bread crumbs.

3) Deep fry it in the oil in the handy fryer in the middle of the table.

4) Dip in your choice of six sauces and enjoy!

5) Put your stick in the stick-holder thingy. Watch with joy as the stick-holder thingy fills up along with your stomach.

Pair your fried dishes with some pasta or rice sides, and top it off with a chocolate-fountain trip and/or self-serve soft-serve ice cream and dessert bar. Remember, it’s all you can eat, even with those AMAZING. JAPANESE. CAKES.

So honestly everything about this was amazing, but my favorite was the way they cut their Vienna sausages:

Look at my widdle octopus!!!

Fly Japanese Airlines. Seriously.

So this post might sound like a JAL commercial, but holy cow, our flight was amazing!

International travel is rough. Sitting for four hours is bad enough, try twelve or thirteen. Add in several layovers and you are mostly sitting ducks for around a full 24 hours. From experience, the biggest problem is boredom and inability to sleep.

Well…JAL helps a lot. My flight was absolutely amazing.

JAL (Japan Airlines) comes from Japan (surprise!!) and they follow the Japanese traditions of customer service and utmost respect. Japanese customer service is something you have to experience to believe. Seriously, NOTHING in America can compare. They say the customer first, but in Japan, it’s like the customer is the ONLY thing. They go to great pains to give you the best experience possible.

So this is what I stared at for 12 hours. And this is an economy seat. Go first or business class and I’m not exaggerating, you get a full sized flat screen.

This piece of magic has everything you need to entertain you for twelve hours and more. This touch-screen is loaded. There are enough movies and TV shows to last at least a month, and it’s all good stuff. I watched “Allegiant” and “Finding Dory” and a really good Japanese drama called “The Kodai Family”. They also had a good selection of oldies-but-goodies. I also watched the BBC World News, played Mahjongg (with excellent graphics), and listened to Zen music – but I could have listened to just about anything I wanted, their music selection is at least as big as their movie menu.

Also, the headphones they provide you with are extremely high quality. Power in the details.

I also like to watch myself fly over the world. They have a wide variety of interactive maps that let you do just that. You can watch day and night move over the world as you do (we stayed in daylight the whole flight!), calculate your distance from anywhere in the world, and zoom in to watch yourself pass over cities and ocean trenches that you have never heard of.

Silly me for thinking we’d fly in a straight line…

I was surprised to find that we flew over much more land than expected.  We flew over a big chunk of Alaska, a Russian peninsula I never knew existed, and the entirety of Hokkaido (Japan’s northern island). Even so, this was the normal view for the flight:

Pretty, but only for about two hours.

You can also view real-time flight data. Very cool, but less practical. My guess is that this screen is a warning to keep your hands and feet inside the vehicle at all times – just in case anyone was tempted to go sky-diving.

I can’t decide whether these numbers are awesome or terrifying.

I packed an arsenal of things to do on the plane, but didn’t break into it once. There was so much to do and see on that console.

So now to food.

It starts with a VERY hot, wet towel to wash your hands, still steaming from the heater. Cleanliness is happiness on a long flight.

So I’m going to post pictures of my Japanese meals side-by-side with my American Airlines meals from three years ago. Guess which is which.

No comparison. Holy cow if this came from a microwave I need that microwave. True to Japanese tradition, they serve lots of little dishes, which is absolutely delightful. Kei had a main dish of Karaage (Japanese fried chicken) and I had this amazing stew beef in a sauce they called demi-glacis or something. FRESH fruit. FRESH Salad. Kitsune udon noodles and soup. REAL butter. Their meals change to utilize what’s in season, so for fall we got a mushroom medley with a piece of chashu pork – the culinarily superior cousin to bacon. REAL silverware. Piping hot miso soup. 

Oh, and not pictured, dessert. A full half-pint of gourmet ice cream to be exact.

Did I mention this was the economy seat’s meal? I don’t even want to know what those rich guys up front got.

I didn’t get a picture of the second meal – but it was mushroom macaroni and cheese (mushrooms are in season!), with more fresh fruit and yogurt. I think that was supposed to be breakfast. It was really good.

So long story short, Japanese airlines are the way to go. They turned a long flight into an experience that was comfortably bearable at worst and delightful at best.  

How to Move to Japan When You Know Zero Japanese - The Bare Necessities

So you've decided to move to Japan! Great! You are going to love your new life in the land of the rising sun. Whether you like living among centuries old cultural traditions or on the fringe of the latest cutting edge, there's something that will speak to you deeply there.

So let's begin talking about actually getting there. Here's a hint: it's not easy. I highly recommend getting the help of a Japanese national, if at all possible. I don't think I could do it without mine.

Still, in case any of you are considering such a move, here's a little of what you can expect.

1. Housing (you gotta live somewhere, right?)

Housing is a hassle, there's no two ways around it. But have fun. Housing in Japan is so different, and enjoy the nuances in archetecture, design, and functionality. You will notice immediately that your new home or apartment will be small. In Japan, space is a premium. Don't worry too much about it! All your appliances and furniture will be designed to be compact and make the absolute most of your space. The Japanese are pros at this.

Have a chunk of change up front. A big one. Many (most) places that you rent will require extensive fees to even get your name on the lease. Sometimes, the start-up fees can be as much as 4 or 5 months' rent, and not all of that will be refundable and/or actually go toward paying rent. This is frustrating, but normal. There are places that just require the first month's rent up front and some minor fees, but if you count on this, your living options are going to be extremely limited and/or not in the best areas. Be prepared, and don't count on getting lucky. We are paying a little more than extra to be in our ideal area of Tokyo, and we're expecting to fork over anywhere from 400,000 to 500,000 yen (approx. $4-5,000.00).

If you are renting, your options are broken down into two main categories: apartments and mansions. The name "mansion" is a bit of a misnomer, as it really just indicates just a newer, higher-tech apartment. (Still, telling all your American friends that you bought a mansion in Tokyo? Priceless.) If cash is tight, go with an apartment ("apaato"). Wanna live it up for a little more? Take a peek at some mansions. There are, of course, other options such as homeowning, but I wouldn't know anything about that. If you want to go that way, please consult your nearest Japanese national and hang on to them - you will need them dearly.

Be prepared for a lot of paperwork. Visas, verification of employment, etc. are a must. Some areas will even require government issued proof of your prior address (and no, a DL doesn't count for some reason). Most places will usually require you to have a guarantor. If you don't have one handy, you can go to a third party company to act as one for you - for a fee. Some places are unique in what they ask for. Either way, be prepared to get it all.

2. Transportation (because your fridge won't fill itself and you can't stay home forever)

Depending on where you live, it might not be practical or even feasible to own a car in Japan. In big cities, you will pay hundreds of thousands of yen each month for the elite privilege of parking your clunker. The bigger the city, the less likely it is that you will need a car at all.

If you do intend to get a car, make sure your U.S. driver's license is current and has plenty of time left on it BEFORE you leave the country. If you have a valid license, you can apply for an international driver's license by taking only a written test, no road test required. If you have to get a Japanese license (probably if you're staying in the country for more than a year), have a fistful of cash and the nerves and patience of a brick wall. I will quote my friend here: "First time you take that road test is a guaranteed fail. Second time is about a 90% chance of failure, third hovers around 70%, and the fourth and beyond you've got a fighting chance at 50/50. And you pay money each time."

Also don't ship your car to Japan. Unless you have a really sweet ride (I'm talking the level of sweetness like a Ferrari), it's more to ship it than your car is worth.

Living in the city? Don't bother with a car! Instead, focus on housing around or reasonably near a train station hub and you'll never be without a ride to most anywhere in the country. Also check out the amenities near your apartment. It's common to walk or bike to the grocery store - stay at a place where you can too. Invest in a nice bike with a basket for goods and make it your best friend. Bling it up with any of thousands of accessories and increase its functionality with gizmos like an attachable umbrella, headlights, speedometer, compass, clock, rear view mirror, fenders, iPhone holder, and/or child seat. Maybe you can't have a Lamborghini but you can have THAT bike, I promise.

Feel free to follow the link below and see just how many accessories are really available.

http://global.rakuten.com/en/category/201695/

3. Basic Household Furniture

-Bed
As stated in the housing section, space is a premium. Your bed will consume your whole bedroom, so don't plan on it. Instead, consider a futon. Great for your back, stylish, and compact. Fold it up into thirds for storage during the day and get back that space for living! If you absolutely can't stand the thought of sleeping on the floor (and it's way nicer than you'd think!) then you can invest in a futon frame and get come inches between you and the floor. The whole set, with a frame, will cost significantly less than a mid-quality American mattress alone.

-Table/Seating
Enter the kotatsu, the most glorious of all Japanese inventions (and there are a LOT of glorious Japanese inventions):

This table-deluxe is not only covered in a thick quilt to warm your legs and feet, but there is a heater underneath that makes you super-duper toasty. It is extremely common to sleep under it. It's like the best fort you never had, doubling as a table that can be used for everything from dining to gaming to and family TV time. The only table you'll need, guaranteed.

Just like with the beds, if you can't adjust to living on the floor, you can buy a Western dining table with chairs, but it will cost you and monopolize a huge portion of your scarce living space.

Don't like back-less seating? Get leg-less chairs or turn your kotatsu into a couch!

You just can't tell me this doesn't look like the dreamiest thing ever.

So your Japanese home won't look quite like the one you left behind. Keep an open mind to try new things and you will be amazed - and quite possibly never want to go back!!

A Few of My Favorite Things - Bathroom Edition

So last time I talked about all the things I'll really miss. I'm learning that moving across the world is a whirlwind of emotions, and today I'm feeling dreamy.

When I left Japan last time, I told my husband that it felt a lot like I was leaving home. I fell in love with Japan and I dare say I left a little bit of me there. Ever since, the things I saw, experienced, and ate (yes, especially ate) have been the stuff of my dreams.

Now I know it's normal to romanticize a place when you're not living there, but indulge me this time. Maybe this post will come in handy to remind me of all the things I love about Japan when I'm having a bad day there.

1. The Bathroom

Yes, you read that right. Japanese bathrooms are doing it 10,000 ways of awesome. The tub is actually deep enough for you to take a real bath in, and coupled with any one of thousands of bath salts/bombs/dissolving rose petals, the experience is a daily treat.

The experience starts with the push of a button.

This is your personal, automated bathroom butler who makes sure that when you push the button at dinner, your dream bath is waiting for you by the time you're done eating. Mine will be named Jeeves. And Jeeves is amazing. He can do anything you want. Want your bath now? That's what the priority button is for! Set the temperature to exactly what you want (in Celsius, because a 45 degree F bath would not be swell) and if your bath takes a little longer than expected - a VERY common occurrence - there is a re-heat button so you can stay submersed for as long as you want.

This is a typical Japanese bathroom:

So the culture is that you do your washing before you get in the bath. Honestly, it's brilliant, and I don't know why we don't do it in America. Who wants to soak in their own filth? 

So the whole room is waterproofed. Using the shower head on the hose, you wash your hair and body, usually sitting on a stool. Or you know, whatever you do. No one cares. When you're squeaky-clean, hop into the bath for the most relaxing sound of all time.

The sound of the tub, filled to the brim with water, overflowing in great cascades to the floor and down the drain.

I can't even get enough of it. I love it. I love that waterfall. I love soaking in custom-temperature bliss forever. I can't wait until it becomes a daily ritual.

Also automated: the toilets.

Why all those buttons? It's an experience you need to have to believe just how awesome it is.

Customize your bidet with the exact water temperature and jet strength of your liking. You can also adjust the position. Then start the dryer. Some toilets play nature sounds, because toilet sounds are considered gross in Japan (I mean, they're gross here, but not gross enough to need to cover with running rivers and singing birds). And oh yeah, the seat is heated. Oooohhhhh yeah that seat is heated.....

If it sounds like overkill then you obviously haven't tried it. It's awesome, you just don't know it yet.

(...to be continued with more goodies later...)